Weatherstripping: Seal Drafts Around Doors and Windows

Types of Weatherstripping and Best Uses

Adhesive-backed foam is affordable and quick for irregular gaps on window stops and door jambs, but it compresses over time and is best for light-duty applications. V-strip (tension seal) works well for double-hung and casement windows where flexible pressure keeps a tight seal as sashes move. Kerf-in bulb and compression seals fit into a kerf slot on modern door frames for a durable, professional finish.

For doors, combine a door sweep with a properly set threshold. Aluminum or stainless sweeps with silicone fins last longer than felt; automatic door bottoms excel on uneven floors. If your latch side won’t seal, a simple strike plate adjustment can draw the door tighter. For windows, add V-strip along the meeting rails of double-hungs, foam or bulb seals on casement stops, and pile or brush seals on sliders to reduce side-to-side play and air infiltration.

Installation Tips to Avoid Common Pitfalls

Clean and dry surfaces thoroughly; oils and dust ruin adhesion. Measure gaps with a gap gauge or feeler set and choose seals that compress about 25–50% when closed—too thin won’t seal, too thick will bind. Cut pieces square and continuous at corners to prevent leaks. Test-close after dry fitting; adjust hinges or the strike plate before committing fasteners. For thresholds, set height so a dollar bill drags slightly under the sweep without scraping the floor.

Simple Tests After You Install

Use the flashlight test at night to check for light leaks, or perform an incense or smoke pencil test on a windy day to spot remaining drafts. A dollar-bill test at doors and windows should show slight resistance when pulled. If you see daylight or fast-moving smoke, tweak the sweep, raise the threshold fractionally, or step up to a thicker compression seal.